Jasper Morris MW describes Champans as "quintessential Volnay". This is a very old vineyard recorded as far back as 1252. It produces one of the communes best wines.
The 2023 Volnay Champans 1er Cru takes its time unfolding a mixture of red and black fruit, briar and light sous-bois scents on the nose. The palate is very elegant and more complex than the Carelle. It has fine mineralité and harmony with quite a precise finish. This is a lovely, understated Champans that's well worth seeking out. (Drink between 2026-2044). 92-94 Points
A clear ruby, not one of the deeper colours. Slightly more raw and briary on the nose, but really complex on the palate, cherry for the bulk, alpine strawberry for the top notes. Well-judged ripeness with adequate acidity and refined tannins. A little riper nonetheless. 91-93 Points
En Primeur barrel sample. Less sweet/ripe fruit and with a bit more structure. More purple fruit and a hint of liquorice. A bit more powerful but still very refined and balanced. Indeed characterful of the vintage that the power is dialled down and v refined. Long finish. 93 Points
