Classic wines at a price to delight
It is amazing the surprises a blind tasting can produce. Last Wednesday I attended a dinner with one of my regular groups and to get things underway we tasted a trio of 2010 Meursault Perrierres. The wines were served blind and we ranked the wines prior to knowing their identity. The trio comprised Domaine Roulot, Domaine Latour-Giraud and Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur.
The clear winner was the Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur - ranked 1st by 5 of 7 tasters and 2nd by the other two. It was the most classic wine - someone said liquid stones - just as Meursault Perrieres should be. The Roulot came a distant third. Big reputation, but the exotic, worked character of the wine made it hard to identify as Perrieres. And the price - it is at least 3 times that of the Bitouzet-Prieur!
This snapshot followed dinner in Meursault with Francois Bitouzet and a group of winemaker friends in June where Francois opened a clutch of the family's Meursault back to the 1988 Perrieres. The wines were fresh, classic and proved just how age-worthy the domaine's whites are.
Following Wednesday's revelation I contacted the domaine to see if they had any more 2010 Perrieres available. The answer was no bottles, but we could have 18 Magnums. In addition they offered some 750ml bottles from 2006, 2007 and 2009.
These wines show why Perrieres is always on the short list of 1er Crus for promotion to Grand Cru. And check out the prices! If you love white Burgundy I suggest you act quickly!
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2006
Pre Arrival $124.95
A vintage of surprises. Far better than originally touted, 2006 has produced some great wines - read the note. 36 available.
Burghound: Here there is a touch of as yet unintegrated SO2 that will probably require another 3 to 4 months to dissipate though it is sufficiently subtle that it doesn't materially detract from the otherwise marvelously elegant and pure white flower, citrus and stony nose that is in perfect keeping with the detailed, precise and equally stony flavors that seem chiseled directly from a block of limestone. Note that there is a touch of finishing gas and I would strongly advise decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. A Sweet Spot Wine. 91 Points
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2007
Pre Arrival $99.95
A great White Burgundy vintage. 72 available. Cheaper than the 2011 which is ridiculous!
Burghound: An ultra-elegant and equally pure nose that oozes both class and a distinct stoniness on the floral pear and green apple nose that sits atop detailed and highly energetic flavors that are textured, delineated and all but painfully intense before culminating in an explosive, palate staining and strikingly long finish. This is a lovely wine of superb intensity that should age beautifully. A Sweet Spot Wine. 91-93 Points
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2009
Pre Arrival $99.95
48 available. Bitouzet's wine is full of style.
Burghound: A background hint of wood sets off a well-layered nose of mineral reduction, pear and elegant floral aromas that complement perfectly the stony, vibrant, detailed, intense and even more precise flavors that display real drive and punch on the refined and admirably persistent finish. A classically styled Perrières. A Sweet Spot Wine. 91 Points
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2010 MAGNUM
Pre Arrival $211.50
A brilliant wine. 18 available.
Burghound: An elegant, pure and ultra-refined nose features notes of acacia blossom, pear, wet stone and anise hints that are also present on the impressively rich and voluminous flavors that possess outstanding intensity on the balanced, focused and linear finish. A classic Perrières that is perhaps just a bit less austere than usual. A Sweet Spot Wine. 91-93 Points