2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. Huge scores! Clos des Lambrays Dinner

2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. Huge scores! Clos des Lambrays Dinner

Lambrays 2014-217 header
2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 - four of the finest Clos des Lambrays of the last 50 years
 
Clos des Lambrays has an illustrious past. I have had the pleasure of drinking some magnificent bottles from the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's. However, in the 1960's through 1990's the domaine lost its way. For a Grand Cru vineyard (which is almost a monopole) the wines simply weren't up to scratch. At the end of the 1990's the domaine showed signs of a resurgence which has continued from that time. In the 1980's a program of replanting commenced to replace vineyards were replanted and a huge number of changes were made in the vineyards and winery by Thierry Brouhin. The recent sale of the domaine to the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy group for around 80 million Euros has no doubt seen an injection of capital that will surely see the domaine retain its lofty position of yesteryear. However, considering the amount of Clos des Lambrays produced each year it is a gigantic investment.
 
Clos des Lambrays is the steepest of the Morey Grand Crus. What many do not know is that the vineyard has three climats, each bringing a different character to the final assemblage. The soil contains many rocks and is rich in iron oxide which explains the elegant, blue fruit and mineral style of the vineyard. Thierry Brouhin, responsible for the rise of the domaine, was engaged for a few years and has produced the outstanding 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. They are arguably the finest Clos des Lambrays of the last 50 years.

We have a small quantity of all four available Please act quicky if you wish to secure a bottle or two.

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2014
$545.00 a bottle

Lambrays Label
Decanter: Ethereal notes of blackberry but also floral lift with a lovely silky texture and a savoury/mineral finish. Great appeal already. 96 Points
Wine Enthusiast: This is such a perfumed wine with deceptively soft tannins and great fruit. The acidity is classic for the vintage, with raspberries and intense freshness at the end. It has a fine line of tannins and a life that will go far. Drink from 2022. *Cellar Selection*. 96 Points

John Gilman "View from the Cellar": The 2014 Clos des Lambrays is a great wine in the making. The stunning bouquet delivers a pure and sappy constellation of sweet dark berries, black cherries, woodsmoke, currant leaf, dark chocolate, a very complex base of soil, fresh herbs and just a whisper of new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and rock solid at the core, with great mineral drive, refined tannins and impeccable focus and balance on the long, ripely tannic and seamless finish. Drink between 2025-2075. 95 Points
Tim Atkin MW: Good bright red with a healthy, concentrated red fruit nose overlaid by a lick of oak. This is pleasingly concentrated on the palate, deep red fruit rather than black, plenty of oak but judiciously integrated. Balanced and stylish with medium density - what this vintage is all about. 94 Points

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2015
$585.00 a bottle

Lambrays Label Decanter: Sweet, elegant raspberry nose with lovely poise and clarity of fruit. A sleek attack, pure and delicate but not lacking in intensity. Finely textured but there's no lack of firm tannins coasting beneath the fruit. Beautifully balanced and very long, with beguiling finesse on the finish. (Drink between 2019-2035). 97 Points
John Gilman "View from the Cellar": 
The 2015 Clos des Lambrays includes ninety-five percent whole clusters this year and is a stunning wine in the making. The bouquet is deep, pure and very expressive out of the blocks, soaring from the glass in a blaze of black plums, sweet cassis, espresso, woodsmoke, gamebird, raw cocoa, a great base of dark soil tones and a nice framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with laser like focus, great balance and grip and a very long, fine-grained and vibrant finish. This will take at least a decade to blossom, but it will be a great wine in the fullness of time. 2025-2075+. 96+ Points
Tim Atkin MW: Made with 100% whole bunches, at it nearly always is, this is one of the most recognisable Burgundies of all in a blind tasting, with notes of peaty Islay malt whisky, sappy, stemmy tannins and complex, savoury, meaty red berry and tobacco notes. The underlying acidity brings a welcome freshness to the finish. 2022-30. 
95 Points

Vinous: Stephen Tanzer: 
Healthy dark red. Pure but tight aromas of raspberry, spices, rose petal, licorice and herbs. Densely packed and vibrant--impressively so for a 2015--with notes of bitter orange rind and peppery herbs accenting its flavors of red berries, brown spices, menthol, mocha and underbrush. Very savory wine with terrific spicy depth, as well as more punch than the 2016. Finishes very firm and extremely long, with serious but refined tannins and superb lift. An outstanding vintage for this grand cru, this wine combines the best characteristics of 2005 and 2010, and that's a formula for longevity and greatness. (Drink between 2027-2043). 95 Points

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2016
$585.00 a bottle

Lambrays Label
John Gilman "View from the Cellar": The grand cru here was raised in fifty percent new oak this year and is one of the stars of the 2016 vintage. The stunning bouquet delivers a complex combination of red and black cherries, black plums, pigeon, dark soil tones, raw cocoa, woodsmoke and a touch of nutty oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off beautiful depth at the core, with plenty of sappiness in reserve, a great soil signature, ripe, suave tannins and a very, very long, nascently complex and vibrant finish. I love this wine's potential! 2030-2085. 96 Points
Jasper Morris MW: 85% whole bunch 50% new wood. About to be racked. Slightly more density of colour here. Some white pepper from the stems. Very dense in its reserved way, not an explosion but all is there. Soft red fruit, some spice, tannins present but not prominent, acidity tamed. Very persistent. A classic Thierry Brouin style Clos des Lambrays. 94-96 Points
Decanter Magazine: Vinified with 85% whole cluster fruit, the 2016 Clos des Lambrays wafts from the glass with a brooding bouquet of blueberry, wild berries, smoked duck, spice and rosehip. The wine is sappy, with lovely depth and concentration, a fine but firm structural chassis, succulent acids, and a long, penetrating finish. An elegant rendition of this wine in its largest harvest since 1999. Drinking Window 2026-2045. 94 Points
Tim Atkin MW: The percentage of whole bunches was reduced to 85% in 2016 because, according to Boris Champy, stems can "bring a certain sweetness to the wine", but this is still true to the Clos des Lambrays style, with quite a bit of oak, impressive concentration, supple tannins and a peaty, Islay malt whisky-like note. 2024-32. 94 Points

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2017
$595.00 a bottle

Lambrays Label
John Gilman "View From the Cellar": The 2017 Clos des Lambrays was still quite youthful, but was showing truly stunning potential on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is still fairly primary, but sports outstanding depth and nascent complexity in its constellation of cassis, black cherries, sweet dark berries, exotic touches of both eucalyptus and lavender, a superb base of soil, heather and a sound foundation of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and suave on the attack, with sappy core, excellent soil signature, fine-grained tannins and a long, closed and classy finish. The oak component here is beautifully done and there are absolutely no issues with the wine's ultimate balance, but I had the sensation that it was clamping down on the wine a bit more than was customary for Clos des Lambrays as this point in its evolution. Perhaps it was just my imagination, as the wine will no doubt be absolutely superb in the fullness of time. (Drink between 2027-2085). 95 Points

Jasper Morris MW: Just blended. 90% whole bunch. 50% new wood. Rich glowing purple. The nose is exceptionally sensual and not aggressively whole bunch. Svelte and sensual, more raspberry than cherry, some deep strawberry fruit too and a little pepper, but only at the back of the palate. This fills the mouth though never more than medium density. But the persistence is there. This is a relatively low acid wine, with a pH of 3.57, the highest since 2006. 93-95 Points

Jancis Robinson: 60 m difference in height between the top and the bottom of the Clos. 50% new and 50% second-use barrel. 90% whole bunch (some years 100%). Will be racked to tank at the end of December. Once in cuve it is stable so there is no hurry to bottle. Must have at least a month in tank to stabilise so they will bottle February - April. Bottling best in March or October - never too cold or hot. No filtration. They bottle with descending moon when the wine is more still. Beautifully, darkly aromatic with plenty of peppery spice. Woody rather than oaky. There's freshness from the tannins as well as from the acidity and the texture is so silky on the mid palate yet with power on the finish. Refined, flowing, dry and long. Handsome beauty and so easy to taste even with the underlying intensity and power. There's just a very slight hint of stems but not OTT. Dark elegance. (Drink between 2025-2040). 18/20 Points
Tim Atkin MW: Produced from what is nearly a monopole grand cru - Domaine Taupenot-Merme owns 0.004ha - Clos des Lambrays is always marked by its 90% whole bunches, but the style is very well done in 2017 under new cellarmaster, Boris Champy. With 50% new wood framing the palate, this is subtle, nuanced and focussed, with polished tannins and bright acidity. (Drink between 2025-2035). 95 Points


Also available from a Private Cellar.....

Domaine de Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2002
$195.00 a 375ml Half Bottle
3 available

Lambrays Label Vinous Media - Neal Martin: The 2002 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a great success for retired winemaker Thierry Brouin. Redcurrants and cranberry on the nose, hints of allspice and tomato vine, all very well defined and conveying a sense of "coolness". The palate is very well balanced, a little rustic but with good weight, gently building towards a discrete ferrous finish that feels long and tender. This Grand Cru could be up and down in this period...this was definitely one of their finest moments. Tasted at the 1243 Club in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2035). 94 Points

Jancis Robinson: Mid crimson. Heady, rich cocktail of aromas. Almost brazen in its appeal. Something almost mushroomy already. And a fantastic hit of ripe yet subtle red fruits on the palate. Gamey, rich, truffley flavours. Acidity hits the palate first, then marked tannins with very deep and nuanced fruit to support them. Very textured. 18.5/20

To view and purchase the wines on line click here. You may also order by email to tracey@grandmillesime.com.au or by telephone. Wines are available now. 
Cheers,
Darren 

GM Logo New  

Grand Millesime Pty Ltd

10/10 Cawley Road

Yarraville

Vic 3013

  

Phone: (03) 9326 5737

Fax: (03) 9326 6744

 

www.grandmillesime.com.au

sales@grandmillesime.com.au

Lambrays Dinner header
Clos des Lambrays 1998-2016 Grand Cru Dinner
Wednesday 4 March 2020 at Ryne
Now also with the Rare Taupenot-Merme Clos de Lambrays 2005
One seat left
Ten Vintages of Clos des Lambrays going back over 20 Years
Plus the very rare Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays 2005
 
Clos des Lambrays has an illustrious past. It first appears in a property certificate by Cîteaux Abbey in February 1365, named as "Cloux des Lambrey". The Abbey used to own many vineyards around the villages of Gilly and Vougeot as well as in the rest of the Côtes and their role in designating the terroirs of Burgundy is of immeasurable importance. During the middle ages Citeaux and its Abbey provided the heartbeat of Bourgogne's influence and prestige.
 
The origin and the meaning of the name Lambrays is unsure. Some say that archivists have found evidence of the existence of a family named Lambreys as early as the 13th century. Above all, Lambrays is the name of the eponymous plot of vines, located at the heart of the current Clos. The unique name of Lambrays is used for the whole of the property. On an 1879 map, the plot is mentioned as the "Pièce des Lambrays". The very first labels with the name Lambrays date back to the end of the 19th century. Since 1938 at least, the expression "Clos des Lambrays" has been used permanently.
 
Following the French Revolution, the Clos des Lambrays as we know it today, started to be divided. In the mid 19th century, there are more than 70 different owners! Over the years the vineyard has been pieced back together and today there are only two owners. The vineyard is 8.84 hectares in size. Of this the Domaine des Lambrays own 8.66 hectares. The tiny remaining parcel of 0.18 hectares parcel belongs to Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
 
The property was ranked as a "première cuvée" in the 19th century, but when Burgundy's appellations were created in the 1930s, the vineyard had fallen on hard times and it was not granted Grand Cru status. (Both Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis in Morey-Saint-Denis obtained Grand Cru status in 1936, with Clos de Tart following in 1939.) When Renée Cosson purchased the Domaine des Lambrays in 1938 from Albert Rodier, the grandson of Albert-Sebastien, the new owner did not seek Grand Cru status since that would have resulted in higher taxes. Subsequently, Cosson-and her son Henri during the 1970s-for the most part neglected the estate during their 40+ years of ownership. Although some outstanding wines were made during Cosson's ownership, such as the '37 and the '45, the vineyard was in disarray by the end of their tenure as many dying vines had not been replanted. Some vintages in the 1970s were not even bottled. By then, the locals commonly referred to the property as Clos Délabré (dilapidated). Never-the-less, in 1981 the vineyard was elevated to Grand Cru status.
 
I have had the pleasure of drinking some magnificent bottles from the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's. But for a Grand Cru vineyard (which is almost a monopole) the wines of the 1960's and 1970's simply weren't up to scratch. At the end of the 1990's the domaine showed signs of a resurgence which has continued from that time. In the 1980's a program of replanting commenced to replace vineyards were replanted and a huge number of changes were made in the vineyards and winery.
 
The recent sale of the domaine to the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy group for around 80 million Euros has no doubt seen an injection of capital that will surely see the domaine retain its lofty position of yesteryear. However, considering the amount of Clos des Lambrays produced each year it is a gigantic investment.
 
Thierry Brouhin, responsible for the rise of the domaine, was engaged for a few years and has produced the outstanding 2014, 2015 and 2016 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. They are arguably the finest Clos des Lambrays of the last 50 years.
 
The resurgence of the vineyard, and the fact that for a Grand Cru that is all but a monopole prices are for the moment reasonable, has prompted me to put together a very special dinner.
 
I have long been a fan of the vineyard and my personal cellar contains a good run of vintages from the start of domaine's recent rise.  I've assembled a lineup of these and combined them with the three most recent vintages to create this Grand Cru event.
 
The dinner will be at Ryne on Wednesday 4 March, 7.30pm start. There are nine seats including myself so we all enjoy a decent pour of the wines. Needless to say Grand Cru tastings are far from the norm these days and this dinner provides a not-to-be-missed opportunity to taste 10 vintages of Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays spanning 1998 to 2016.
 
STOP PRESS!
 
Whilst assembling the wines for the dinner I remembered I had a bottle of the Domaine Tauepenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays 2005 in my cellar.
 
Taupenot-Merme own a tiny, tiny parcel - but just enough to prevent Domaine des Lambrays having a Monopole. Of the 8.84 hectares, Taupenot-Merme have 0.042 hectares.  I can only imagine how frustrating that must be.
 
Neal Martin, Vinous wrote on January 14. 2020 "This Cellar Favorite is probably not going to be Bernard Arnault's favorite. The owner of LVMH might have more money than a small equatorial country, but the one thing he cannot buy is monopole status for Clos des Lambrays. That is because the Taupenot family of Domaine Taupenot-Merme owns a tiny 420-square-meter parcel of it. They dug up a vegetable patch in 1974 and planted vines, thereby guaranteeing that they would be a thorn in the side of Domaine des Lambrays for years to come. The appellation was promoted to Grand Cru in 1981 and Taupenot-Merme duly produced a handful of bottles of their debut Clos des Lambrays. Not surprisingly, ever since Domaine des Lambrays became part of the LVMH empire, solicitations have been constantly made to the Taupenot family to relinquish their holding, but to no avail. Taupenot-Merme only ever makes around half a barrel (approximately 180 liters) of Clos des Lambrays, and given the minuscule quantity, I assumed that they used whole bunches in order to boost volume; however, Romain Taupenot told me that the fruit is de-stemmed."
 
The Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays is very rare (see above - around 180 bottles per vintage). You can taste the 2005 at this dinner.
 
The menu and wine list:
 
Smoked Trout Rillette, croutons
Champagne on arrival
 
Grilled Quail, celery, shimeji, bois boudran
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 1998
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 1999
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2000
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2001
 
Corn Fed Chicken Breast, ballotine, shallot, mushroom, cepe sauce
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2002
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2003
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2005
Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays 2005
 
Milla's Farm Duck Breast, duck sausage, iberico, fig, chocolate & coffee, spiced jus
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2014
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2015
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2016
 
Chocolate Souffle, coffee ice cream
Something sweet
 
Date: Wednesday 4 March 2020
Time: 7.30pm
Venue: Ryne, 203 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North 3065
Cost: $685.00 per person

 Click here to view and book on line.
 

Under the Liquor Reform Act 1998, it is an offence for a person under the age of 18 years to purchase or receive liquor. It is also an offence for a licensee to supply liquor or permit liquor to be supplied to a person under the age of 18 years.

 If you wish to unsubscribe from our mailing list please click on the unsubscribe link below.
Grand Millesime, 10/10 Cawley Road, Yarraville, Victoria 3013 Australia
Sent by darren@grandmillesime.com.au in collaboration with
Constant Contact
Try email marketing for free today!
Tasting French Wine Club Buy Fine French wines Best New Premium Wine Premium Wine for Sale