Stunning 2017 Burgundies from Domaine Dugat-Py

Stunning 2017 Burgundies from Domaine Dugat-Py

Dugat-Py 2017 header
A Burgundy icon

Domaine Dugat-Py is a small domaine of just 7.5 hectares. Yet it is a domaine that is spoken of in the same reverent tones as DRC, Roumier and Rousseau. You could be excused for dismissing it as too rare, too expensive, too 'closed-shop' to be of interest to more humble Burgundy enthusiasts, but that would be a great mistake. These are wines of profound importance to Burgundian heritage that simply must be experienced. The domaine's home is the 11th century cellars built by the Abbey of St Benigne, a fitting place for production of such iconic wines.
 
Bernard Dugat can trace his winemaking lineage through his grandmother all the way back to 1645; though the 'Dugat' label itself began in 1923 with the marriage of Fernand Dugat and Jeanne Bolnot. You get the feeling that each generation - Bernard's son Loïc will be the thirteenth - is not only a steward of this magnificent terroir but also of the spirit and style of méthode ancienne Burgundy - the production of grandiose wines of profound scale and concentration, designed for long cellar ageing.
 
The style and substance of Dugat-Py is only possible because of the quality of their terroir. Farming here is all organic and done by hand and horse alone. Bernard employs five people, full time, to work the vines. Faultless selections of tortuously gnarled old vines gift tiny yields of sumptuous fruit. Picking is relatively early, to retain freshness and definition, while the stems are retained in almost all his cuvées. Everything about the fermentation is natural and uncomplicated. Bernard has the confidence in his ingredients to extract, and to extract well. Élevage is not shy either. Barrels from François Frères are used for every cuvée, and all new wood for the top wines.
 
William Kelley of the Wine Advocate said "A jubilant Loïc Dugat-Py related that in the wake of 2016's frosts, the like of which he had never seen, his father and grandfather warned him that 2017 would bring a bumper crop. Accordingly, pruning and debudding were severe. But when even the domaine's oldest vines set too much fruit, he took the decision to green harvest, removing the equivalent of some fifteen to twenty barrels of wine. His exigence was rewarded, because in the warm, dry August weather, the domaine's vines didn't experience the same hydric stress that blocked maturation in more generously cropped vineyards, and Loïc was thus able to begin picking on September 2, making him one of the earliest in the Côte de Nuits. Yields ranged between 20 and 32 hectoliters per hectare-less than what many producers harvest in a small vintage-of clean and healthy grapes. Fermentations in wooden and cement tanks incorporated large percentages of whole clusters. For some years now, Loïc has employed more used barrels for the élevage of the domaine's Gevrey-Chambertin AOC bottlings, and that welcome trend continued, and though the higher appellations, often produced in tiny quantities, continue to see largely new wood, the domaine is immensely well served by François Frères these days. The result is a range of wines that numbers among the most exciting I tasted during over two months in Burgundy-and, what's more, a portfolio I tasted fully three times from barrel." "I've written before about how the stereotype of heavy extraction and prominent new oak no longer applies to the wines of Domaine Dugat-Py, but it's worth reiterating that this is an address with which serious Burgundy lovers need to reacquaint themselves. Visiting regularly up and down the Côte d'Or, I see plenty of estates in transition. In some instances, where vines and soils have been neglected, effecting a revolution takes a decade or more, involving many hours of hard work in the fields. In others, when the vineyards are already beautifully managed, a few quantitative adjustments in the cuverie and cellar can make a qualitative difference. Since the Domaine Dugat-Py's vineyards are among the most immaculately tended in all of Burgundy-now certified biodynamic, with regularly tilled soils and canopies rolled à la Domaine Leroy-all that was necessary were a few minor changes to launch the wines into a different qualitative stratosphere. The depth and concentration borne of old vines and low yields remain, and may still disconcert readers habituated to more fluid, immediate styles of Burgundy, but extraction is gentler and the presence of new oak both reduced and more refined."

Today we feature a stunning range of wines from this iconic producer.

We also have a range of Dugat-Py wines from 2015 and 2016 available. For information email darren@grandmillesime.com.au.

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2017
$235.00 
Dugat-Py Gevrey VV label Jancis Robinson: Vines 30-50 years old. 25% whole bunch and 25% new oak. Very spicy and dark. Lots of peppery spice on the nose and a sort of wild-fruit character. Chewy on the palate, with wild-cherry flavours. Dense and packed with fruit but has complementary freshness. Deep and chewy on the finish. Honest and deeply flavoured. (Drink between 2023-2030). 16.5/20
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Coeur de Roy Tres Vieilles Vignes 2017
$318.50
Dugat-Py Coeur label
Decanter: Three parcels, all of them planted with the old-vine massal selections that are an important feature of the Dugat-Py holdings, make up this superb village red. It's focussed, fragrant and refined, with subtle aromatic spices from 50% whole bunches, glossy tannins and a fresh, mineral-edged finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 203093 Points

Wine Advocate: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy continues to show spectacularly, bursting from the glass with aromas of violet, cherries, cassis, subtle grilled meat and espresso roast. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied with broader shoulders and more density and structure than the finer-boned Evocelles, its rich tannins nicely cloaked in a core of pure and succulent fruit, concluding with a long finish. While it won't demand as much bottle age as the 2016 or 2015 renditions, it will reward at least a handful of years of bottle age and drink well for two decades thereafter. This cuvée derives from vines between 50 and 108 years of age located in the lieux-dits Epointures, Combe du Dessus, Jouise and Les Marchais. It was vinified with around 40% whole cluster and matured in 60% new oak. 91-93 Points
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles Tres Vieilles Vignes 2017
$405.00
Dugat-Py Evocelles label
William Kelley, Wine Advocate: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is showing spectacularly well from bottle, soaring from the glass with aromas of dark wild berries, grilled meats, woodsmoke, rich soil tones and espresso roast. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, built around fine, powdery tannins and a racy spine of acidity, concluding with a long and precise finish. More mineral and incisive than the broader, more muscular Coeur du Roy, this Evocelles is defined by its stony hillside terroir. Drink 20205-2050.
93+ Points
Jasper Morris MW: 75% new wood and 60% whole bunch vinification. Late malolactic here which has meant a later racking. Almost black centre to this, oak dominant nose. This is powerful on the palate, spicy and toasty from both whole bunch and barrel, a dense dark fruit, some hillside minerality but actually not so much as this vineyard can offer. Tasted: December 2018. 90-92 Points

Jancis Robinson: Almost 1 ha (around 2.4 acres) of 70-year-old vines. Racked in September and back to barrel. I am the first to taste this because the malo was so late. 50% whole bunch and 50% new oak. Sweet spice that seems to be both fruit and oak. Dark red fruits, really ripe but not overripe. Firm and grippy on the palate, with a savoury character given by the tannins. Deep and richly fruited and lovely freshness adding to the length. Juicy at the core. Opens up to a red-fruited ripe scent. Deep and generous in fruit. (JH) (Drink between 2022-2032). 16.5/20

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2017
$325.00

Dugat-Py Champeaux standard label William Kelley, Wine Advocate: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux is one of the more reserved wines in the cellar, unfurling in the glass with notes of grilled meats, cherries, dark berries and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with the density and fine-grained structure that is so typical of this premier cru, underpinned by succulent acids and concluding with a long, youthfully firm finish. This will be a prospect for sustained bottle age. 92-94 Points

Neal Martin, Vinous: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru matures in 80% new oak and is made with around 60% whole bunch fruit. It has one of the most floral bouquets from Dugat-Py, one that is almost Vosne-like in style - very intense and lethally seductive! The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, grippy tannin, good acidity and perhaps more freshness and tension on the finish than the domaine's other Premier Crus. Good potential but as always it needs time. (Drink between 2025-2045). 91-93 Points
 
Jancis Robinson: Next to Les Evocelles and Clos St-Jacques. 100% new oak, 60% whole bunch. He's blowing lots of air into the sample through the thief as it's a bit reduced. Won't be bottled until March or April. Still a touch smokily reduced but it's easy to see the fruit on the palate. Dark, savoury from the reduction but has dark fruit underneath. Very savoury at the moment. Firm, almost chalky, texture. Honest and chewy and packed with fruit. Embryonic. (Drink between 2025-2035). 17/20

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Vieilles Vignes 2017
$700.00

Dugat-Py Petite Chapelle label Decanter: Another impressive premier cru bottling from Loïc Dugat-Py, this hails from three parcels on the slope close to Griotte-Chambertin. It's slightly closed at the moment, but with the balance and focus to age superbly in bottle. This has a hint of reduction, pithy, chalky minerality and the fruit intensity that's a feature of the domaine's wines. (Drink between 2026-2032). 95 Points
William Kelley, Wine Advocate: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle confirms all the promise it showed from barrel and ranks among the highlights of this year's collection chez Dugat-Py. Bursting with aromas of cassis, blackberries, smoked meats, truffles and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety but incisive, simultaneously impressively concentrated and stimulatingly vibrant, concluding with a long and sapid finish. This is the finest Petite Chapelle that I can remember tasting at this address. Drink 2025-2050. 94 Points
 
Burghound: As is virtually always the case and, as one would expect, this is aromatically much more elegant with its perfumed combination of lavender, red cherry, spice and Asian-style tea. The gorgeously textured and strikingly delineated medium-bodied flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the caressing yet powerful finish that goes on and on. This is a knockout. 
(Drink starting 2035). 92-94 Points
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques Vieilles Vignes 2017
$735.00
Dugat-Py Lavaux label William Kelley, Wine Advocate: The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques possesses immense potential. Offering up notes of cassis, peonies, blood orange, smoked meats and coniferous forest floor, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with amazing intensity without weight, exquisitely refined structuring tannins, concluding with an unremittingly long and pungently perfumed finish. The inherent charm of the 2017 vintage makes this an especially graceful Lavaux Saint-Jacques, without diminishing any of this cuvée's capacity to age, and patience will be richly rewarded. Drink 2027-2060. 95+ Points

Burghound: Here too there is a touch of crushed leaf character to the markedly sauvage-suffused aromas of wild dark berries, plum and soft earth whiffs. The rich, intense and muscular larger-scaled flavors exude evident minerality on the austere and mildly edgy finish that is once again very firm. Note that my rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the mild edginess will gradually dissipate. (Drink starting 2032). 92 Points
Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 2017
$1135.00

Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin label William Kelley, Wine Advocate: I have already tasted the 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru three or four times since it was bottled, and it is an immensely appealing young wine that exemplifies the stylistic evolution that Loïc Dugat-Py has subtly enacted at this estate since taking the helm a few years ago. Soaring from the glass with an expressive bouquet of cherries, licorice and sweet coniferous forest floor, it's full-bodied, ample and exquisitely velvety, with a deep and concentrated core, mouthwateringly succulent acids and a long, intense finish. More immediate and overtly charming than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques, anyone who wants to understand contemporary Dugat-Py could be forgiven for tasting a bottle young. Drink 2025-2060. 96 Points

Burghound: This is quite ripe with its notes of poached plum, red and dark cherry and a hint of newly turned earth. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is velvety and seductive yet with fine size, weight and volume with excellent power on the dusty, intense and impressively persistent finish. Patience strongly suggested. (Drink starting 2034). 93 Points

Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
$1135.00

Dugat-Py Mazoyeres label
Decanter: Loïc Dugat-Py makes a pure Mazoyères alongside his Charmes-Chambertin, sourced from two 0.3ha blocks of 40 and 70 years old on stony soils. This is denser and more compact than its stablemate, with more evident whole bunch spice and grip, amazing texture and flavour, scented new wood, and a finish that lasts for a minute or more on the palate. (Drink between 2026-2035). 98 Points

Neal Martin, Vinous: The 2017 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru is raised entirely in new oak, including 75% whole bunch fruit. This has a much more expressive bouquet than the Charmes-Chambertin: pure brambly red fruit, crushed stone and touches of rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well balanced and it soaks up that oak with ease, leaving the finish silky smooth and quite sensual. This is probably the best cru from Dugat-Py this year, a stunning expression of this Grand Cru. 
(Drink between 2024-2048). 95-97 Points

Burghound: An exuberantly floral nose blends relatively deeply pitched notes of spiced plum, dark cherry, cassis and plenty of humus character along with a background shading of spice wisps. The markedly earthy big-bodied and almost painfully intense flavors flash imposing power on the driving and palate staining finish that also delivers superb length. This is unapologetically old school in style and has the tannic spine to prove it. (Drink starting 2037). 94 Points

Mazis-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 2017
$1225.00

Dugat-Py Mazis labelWilliam Kelley, Wine Advocate: There are four barrels of the 2017 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, the wildest and most brooding of the domaine's grands crus, a wine that unfurls in the glass with aromas of rose hip, espresso roast, dark wild berries, forest floor, dark chocolate and cherries. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional with immense depth and concentration, framed by powdery tannins and concluding with a long, pungently intense finish. As usual, this is more reserved, with a tighter-knit core, than either the Mazoyères or the Charmes and it will merit 15 years of bottle age. The Mazis was fermented with fully 90% whole cluster this year. Drink 2030-2060. 95-97 Points

Burghound: The gorgeously complex nose features very ripe aromas of various dark berries, spice, violet, earth and a touch of rose petal. There is once again almost painful intensity to the muscular big-bodied flavors that brim with sappy dry extract that pushes the very firm tannins to the background on the structured, austere and exceptionally powerful finale where a hint of acid tang arises that does not cut the length short. (Drink starting 2037). 94 Points

Vosne-Romanee Tres Vieilles Vignes 2017
$415.00

Dugat-Py Vosne William Kelley, Wine Advocate: 
The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is performing very well from bottle, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berry fruit, plums, smoked meats, dark chocolate and orange rind that becomes deeper-pitched and more brooding with time in the glass. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with powdery structuring tannins, succulent acids and a long and perfumed finish. This has gained additional depth and dimension in the last year. Drink 2030-2060. Drink 2024-2045. 91+ Points

The wines are not on our website. To order email tracey@grandmillesime.com.au or phone (30) 9326 5737. 
 
Cheers,
Darren

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Grand Millesime Pty Ltd

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Phone: (03) 9326 5737

Fax: (03) 9326 6744

 

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Dugat Claude 2017 Lavaux Header
 
Claude Dugat Burgundies
 
We also have a selection of Bugundies from the equally renowned cousin Claude Dugat available. 
2014 and 2016 are in stock. 2017's are enroute from France.

To view and order on our website click here.


 
Castagnier Cellar Dinner Ocha 2

Domaine Jerome Castagnier. Wines from the Cellar 2011-2016 Dinner at Ocha. Thursday 20 February 2020
 
We've raided the cellar
Compare the same wine from multiple vintages at this special dinner
 
We get quite a few requests for events featuring wines with some bottle age. So we've decided to raid the cellar and assemble a dinner featuring several vertical brackets. 
 
Domaine Castagnier is one of our most popular producers and we have a good selection of wines in our museum holdings.
 
Jerome Castagnier was originally a professional trumpet player with the Guard Republicain, the national band of France, Jerome took over the family domaine just over a decade ago. Armed with a raft of great vineyards he has turned Domaine Castagnier into a rising star. 
 
A few years ago he was awarded Young Winemaker of the Year. Always smiling and with a super sense of humour, Jerome found this quite amusing as he felt he was a little too old to be Young Winemaker. Never-the-less it further confirmed his status in Burgundy.
 
We have a nice reserve of back vintages and I thought it would be opportune to present a selection of wines from Bourgogne to Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. 
 
So we will start with Jerome's Puligny-Montrachet blanc then move to a pair of the delicious Bourgogne followed by a brace of Jerome's Gevrey-Chambertin Villages. 
 
Then we will taste two brackets of Premier Cru Reds. The first bracket features three consecutive vintages of Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux. As with Echezeaux in Flagey the origin of this vineyard name is from the ancient word for buildings. The vineyard lies right on the Gevrey border and part adjoins the Grand Cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin. It is a small vineyard of 1.49 hectares. It is not well known but it is a seriously good vineyard.
 
The second Premier Cru bracket is Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers. This is one of Gevrey's best Premier Crus. It is located in the Combe de Lavaux alongside Clos St-Jacques. It is steep, stony and exposed due east. The resulting wines are elegant, precise and complex. Once again we have three consecutive vintages.
 
And to finish a trio of Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a favourite of Jancis Robinson produced from a small parcel of very old vines.
 
The dinner provides an unique opportunity to taste the same wine from multiple vintages. 
 
The dinner will be at Ocha in Hawthorn.

The wine list:
 
Puligny-Montrachet 2016
Puligny-Montrachet 2015
 
Bourgogne Rouge 2016
Bourgogne Rouge 2015
 
Gevrey-Chambertin 2015
Gevrey-Chambertin 2012
 
Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux 2015
Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux 2014
Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux 2013
 
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2015
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2014
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2013
 
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2013
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2012
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2011
 
Date: Thursday 20 February 2020
Time: 7.30pm
Venue: Ocha
3-5 Church St, Hawthorn Vic 3122
Cost: $225.00

To book on our website click here.
 

Under the Liquor Reform Act 1998, it is an offence for a person under the age of 18 years to purchase or receive liquor. It is also an offence for a licensee to supply liquor or permit liquor to be supplied to a person under the age of 18 years.

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